Camino Primitivo part 2: Grado to La Espina
The forecast was not great but it was pretty accurate. So Liz had her cape and I had my big umbrella ready when we stepped of the train at Grado.
We needed them, because the rain kept coming and going… as soon as the umbrellas were up, the rain would ease off a little, then the minute they were closed, down it came. Still, not a problem really because we were tramping through delightful little villages, marvelling at some of the very neat gardens, the huge kiwi fields, the massive stacks of logs chopped and waiting for winter. We climbed out of Grado to a church on top of a mist covered hill, very atmospheric. The priest invited us into the back so he could stamp our pilgrim certificates. A few people were turning up for the Sunday mass and they pointed us off down the quickest way. They’re building a dual carriageway there, so the camino is a bit more complicated than normal. No matter though, it’s usually well signposted.
22km to Las Salas, where we ate in a seafood themed restaurant, the only place open and serving. Salas is a pretty little town, created in 1270 by Alfonso the wise as part of the trade route to Galicia. The camino follows that route still and crosses bridges and passes fountains which have been in use for 1200 years or more. In Salas Julio complained about his boots, new ones, that he was considering taking a knife to.
He soldiered on, as did we, in the gloom, up a taxing climb in the last light of the day. Then the fog came, and more rain. We watched as the 6pm bus went past us on the other side of the valley, the next one would be at 9. So no rush. We had a coffee in a new hostel and chatted to the guardian, a valencian who had sold his sportswear shop to buy a ruined house and live the Asturian good life. He proudly showed us his renovated horreo (the wooden grain stores that are ubiquitous here), which he had fitted out underneath with a stove and bathroom, as well as a kitchen and bedroom.
We carried on to La Espina and drank shandy in a very local bar (for local people) until the bus arrived. Thirty some kilometres, so not an inconsequential day.
Tags: camino primitivo, walking, weather
Both comments and pings are currently closed.
second stage done ,and in tough conditions , you may turn into a pilgrim yet !!